Waiting

Up until I arrived in Hanoi, I would have said I loved Vietnam without reservation.  I suppose it's true that one shouldn't judge an entire nation by a few cities, but on the other hand jumping to conclusions is a real time-saver. In HCMC I reveled in the frantic friendliness of the nation's largest city.  In Nha Trang I watched in confused wonder as hundreds of local kite enthusiasts, their eyes turned anxiously skyward, acted as anchors for the neon squadron that hovered daily, high above the South China Sea.  In Hoi An I had time to relax, letting the hours drift gently away, a pork sandwich and a 16 cent draft beer the only companionship I really needed.  After those cities I couldn't imagine a better place to travel.

But now it's Hanoi.  Regarding tourists, the mission statement of the nation's capital, agreed to by near unanimous vote sometime before I arrived, reads as follows: "Take what you can. Give nothing back.".  It's a policy that creates a disorienting contrast.  In previous towns, I had become accustomed to enjoying a cup of deliciously strong iced coffee for about 30 cents which was served on every street corner.  In Hanoi I approach a coffee vendor serving  locals seated in low plastic chairs. I pointed to the iced coffee and indicated my desire for one.  She shook her head and told me to go next door.  I went next door, a standard looking cafe, checked the menu, found the coffee priced at 1.25 USD, and returned to request a plastic chair and a cheap cup of coffee, only to be refused again.  Although I have managed to find several delightful exceptions, this strategy is quite common.  Restaurants, hotels, travel agents and shoe salesmen would all rather see me go elsewhere than let me take advantage of the prices that locals pay.  I watched a local man pay 1.50 USD for a large meal.  I asked about the same meal and was told it was 5 USD.  My bus ticket from Hoi An to Hanoi was 13 USD.  I asked about going back and was quoted 29 USD.  When I walk away there is rarely an attempt to bargain, just a quiet confidence that the conspiracy is intact and I will find no better price.  And even when the purchase is made, even when the price is agreed without bargaining, there are few smiles to be pulled from the exhausted looking staff at the restaurants, and I often get the sense that they would be a little happier if I had chosen another travel destination.

Still I love Vietnam.  Even in Hanoi there are friendly people (most of them seem to work at my hotel) and the food is mostly excellent.  And I love having the opportunity to settle in, even in my least favorite city so far, and get to know the neighborhood, my hotel staff and my favorite local restaurants.  It has been a recurring theme that the longer I stay in a city the more I like it, and Hanoi is no exception. It's just that if money were no object, I'd probably spend these days of waiting somewhere else.